We both slept through the night and didn’t wake until just before our alarm was to go off, so I think we may have solved the timezone problem. We came to India two days before our birding tour begins so that we would have one day to see the things we most want to see in Delhi and another just to rest before the rather vigorous tour begins. We were pleased to find that the hotel’s breakfast is a real treat with many hot Indian dishes in addition to pastries and such. We allowed ourselves to indulge freely, as we were not planning to take the time to have lunch. |
Four of the five Jantar Mantar survive, but all have deteriorated during the
almost three centuries since they were built (ca. 1725-1730). The instruments
in Delhi have suffered both from changing groundwater levels and from
unfortunate attempts to repair them.
If you would like to take a short walk through the Delhi Jantar Mantar, take a
look at this video.
For a good introduction to the Jantar Mantar, see
Architecture in the Service of Science: The Astronomical Observatories of
Jai Singh II by Barry Perlus.
For a good in-depth discussion of the best of the instruments, see
Precision
Instruments of Sawai Jai Singh by Virendara Nath Sharma and Anjani K.
Mehra (this is slow to download but worth the wait).
One of the more accurate Delhi instruments originally was the Samrat Yantra, the giant equinoctial sundial (also used for observing stars). The gnomon (the part that casts the shadow) is the stairway shown below on the left, which is more than 21 meters tall. Its hypotenuse points quite accurately to the north celestial pole and is 39 meters long. It casts its shadow on a giant scale (originally white, now grey) that formed a half circle and lies in a plane parallel to the equatorial plane. |
Gnomon, Samrat Yantra, Delhi (with part of the scale on the left) |
Samrat Yantra, Delhi, Part of the scale flooded by concrete |
Unfortunately, several feet of concrete have been poured into the base of this
instrument, burying much of the lower portion of the scale. Even if the air in
Delhi were still clear enough for the Sun to cast a shadow and even if there
were not tall buildings nearby shading the instruments, it would no longer be
possible to use this instrument to tell the time between 9 in the morning and 3
in the afternoon because those parts of the scale are buried. Even when the
instrument was in pristine condition, it had a problem in dealing with the fact
that the Sun is not a point source of light. With such a tall gnomon, the
shadow has a penumbra several centimeters wide. This was dealt with
successfully, however, by using the same conventions in marking the scale as
in reading it.
I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the instruments, which are in a nice park with lots of Five-striped (we were finally able to count the stripes) Palm Squirrels running about. Perhaps my favorite instruments were the Rama Yantras, which, like some of the other instruments, were built as complementary pairs to facilitate observation of stars (when the observer needed to be able to stand close to the scales and look up to sight the star against a marker rather than looking down to note the marker’s shadow on the scales in the sunlight). Despite the maintenance problems, one could still get a good idea of all of the instruments, though we couldn’t really go into most of them, as there are barriers and guards. |
Five-striped Palm Squirrel |
Rama Yantra (instrument for measuring altitude and azimuth) |
We did climb about a bit on the sexiest-looking of the instruments, the Misra Yantra, the big composite instrument built by Jai Singh’s son. Though it has become a symbol of Delhi, the Misra Yantra was never actually as accurate as the devices built by Jai Singh himself. I was delighted to discover that some of its scales are intact enough that we could make out the original Indian numerals (Devanagari numerals) marking the gradations. |
Misra Yantra (composite instrument), Delhi |
Detail of Scale, Misra Yantra |
When we were ready to leave the Jantar Mantar, Vibhor told us that there was a place nearby that he really wanted to show us that he doubted we’d see during our group tour on Friday, so off we went. When our car stopped in a narrow alley, I was struck by the vibrant graffiti on the walls: |
![]() |
![]() |
Then Vibhor took us through a short passageway and we were both overawed: |
It was a 12th Century stepwell, the Ugrasen ki Baoli. This was a complete surprise to us. We didn’t know such things existed. It’s 60 meters long and 15 meters wide and goes down 103 steps. The walls consist of tier upon tier of beautiful yellow stone arcades. What a sight! I was really enchanted and very pleased that I’d let Vibhor talk us into the side trip. He clearly wanted us to see an important Hindu building, rather than only the Mughal and pre-Hindu artifacts on the agenda we’d given him. I later learned that there were thousands of stepwells in ancient India and that donating one was viewed as a great community service, as they provided not only water in times of drought but also community gathering places, especially for women, to whom most of the work of carrying water fell. |
![]() Map of Major Indus Valley Sites |
From there, we drove to the
National Museum, where we
took the time to thoroughly savor their Indus Valley (“Harappan”)
collection.
We fell in love with the art of the Indus Valley civilization back in 2003 when we saw an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum, Art of the First Cities: The Third Millennium B.C. from the Mediterranean to the Indus. The single most famous piece of art from that civilization is the sculpture of a “Priest King” from Mohenjo-daro. We were lucky to have seen that in the Met’s exhibit, as it is ordinarily in the Karachi Museum. Frustratingly little is known about the Harappans. There have been extensive excavations of their cities, and their artifacts have been found in ancient Mesopotamian cities, with whom they had strong trade relations. They had a writing system, but it has never been deciphered, largely because all the inscriptions found so far are short, most of them on seals. It is not even known what the language family was, nor is it known what caused the decline of their civilization (changes in the courses of rivers and invasion by the Indo-Europeans are two likely candidates). (Note that we will soon be birding in the Thar Desert, which you can see on this map, but unfortunately that is as close as we will get to the Indus Valley.) |
Vikram Chandra wrote beautifully of the Indus Valley civilization in Red
Earth and Pouring Rain:
Suppose someone says, what really happened? Then say that once there were people who built cities in the valley of the Indus, large teeming cities with broad straight streets intersecting at ninety degrees, like a well-made grid. There are some things that have appeared out of the drifting sands to speak cryptically about these people; there is a statue of a sophisticated, gentle man with contemplative, inward-looking eyes. There is a figurine of a dancing girl, head proudly thrown back, hips carelessly and confidently thrust forward, hand on waist, ready to break impulsively into movement. There are thousands of lines of beautiful undecipherable writing on clay seals; on one of these seals Pashupati sits in meditation, the supreme Yogi, the Lord of animals, the wild king of the forest who holds the universe together with his dance, penis erect in gathered energy. There is the figure of the bull, dewlapped and powerful, repeated endlessly on the seals. There are the toys, the thousands of clay animals and carts like the ones we see on country roads today. There are the great baths, now empty; the wind shifts dust endlessly across the desert. At the National Museum, we got to see most of the works Chandra referred to in that excerpt. I suspect he meant the Karachi carving as the “sophisticated, gentle man”, though he may have had in mind another wonderful head of a priest from Mohenjo-daro that we saw today. His famous dancing girl was there, “hips carelessly and confidently thrust forward”, and look at this elegant male torso: |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
The Pashupati Seal was there; it is considered by many to be evidence that the religion of the Indus Valley civilization was the precursor to Hinduism. We also saw “the figure of the bull, dewlapped and powerful, repeated endlessly on the seals” with the “beautiful undecipherable writing”: |
![]() |
![]() |
And as Chandra wrote, “There are the toys, the thousands of clay animals and carts like the ones we see on country roads today”: |
![]() |
![]() |
There were also handsome pottery and accomplished bronzes: |
|
![]() |
How strange it is that the memory of this whole civilization was lost until the
1920’s!
Our last stop of the day was to visit Humayun’s Tomb. If you would like a short visit yourself, see this video. Humayun was Babur’s son and the second Mughal Emperor of India. I particularly wanted to visit his tomb because it is a precursor to the Taj Mahal and established the style for Mughal buildings in India. And, it is an exquisite work of art itself. Like the Taj Mahal, it tells a love story; it was built by Humayun’s wife following his unexpected death from a fall in 1556. Vibhor is not allowed to guide inside the tomb, so he gave us a short talk about it and then waited while we spent a glorious half hour exploring it on our own. As soon as we came to the gatehouse (built in yellow sandstone), I began seeing the wonderful Mughal touches I had learned about in studying for our visit to the Taj. And then we stepped through the gateway and beheld the tomb itself, built mostly of a deep red sandstone brightened with white marble inlays. |
Gatehouse, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Being a Mughal building, it was of course set in extensive gardens with orderly water channels and fountains. We climbed some very steep stairs to go up onto the terrace and began exploring the architecture with its wonderful inlays and carvings. |
Fountain before Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
External Niche, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Jali, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Chhatri with Blue Tiles, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
The interior was dazzling in white marble with red sandstone inlays and the occasional touch of blue. Many members of the Imperial family have their sepulchers there, including Dara Shikoh, the subject of the play we saw in London, who was Humayun’s great-great-grandson. |
![]() Interior, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Interior of Dome, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Dome Detail, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |
Sepulchers, Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi |